An Insider's Guide to Nashville (Updated)
This is an updated version of a popular blog I originally posted 10 years ago!
With world-class food and some of the most talented musicians and songwriters in the world, Nashville has become an “it” city to visit. Thinking about taking a trip? Now that I'm past my 25th year as a Nashvillian, I thought I'd create an insider’s guide of must-sees and don’t-misses to help you plan your time...my favorite spots are marked with an asterisk.
(Aspiring artists/songwriters: scroll to the bottom for additional industry-related pointers.)
WHEN TO VISIT:
Spring and fall are the best times to visit - but bring your anti-pollen meds in spring if you have hay fever! Winter's generally overcast and less busy, with temperatures in the 30s/40s (snow is rare, but if it happens the city shuts down). Summer is pretty but very hot and humid, with temperatures reaching over 100F (especially in August).
Last week of March is Tin Pan South Songwriters' Festival, a great event when almost all of the big name songwriters in town will perform - but get your passes early because they sell out in a few hours!
Early June is CMA Music Fest. Visit now if you want to see all your favorite country artists in one weekend, but avoid it if you hate crowds and want a reasonably priced hotel room.
WHERE TO STAY:
Nashville is not a very walkable city, unless you plan to stay downtown (and there's a lot more to see than just downtown). If you can drive here, that’s a good plan. If you’re flying, the airport is easy to navigate, and a quick 15 minute ($25-$40 depending on traffic) ride from downtown. The metro bus service is an option, but most of us use Lyft and Uber to get where we’re going.
Lots of folks choose to rent rooms through Airbnb.com, and there are lots of those available in different parts of the city. As for hotels, many visitors stay at the massive Opryland Hotel resort situated close to the airport, 20 minutes east of downtown. It’s a cool place, and they do operate shuttles to the downtown area. But for the real Nashville experience, I usually recommend using Hotels.com to search for a room downtown (near Broadway, Demonbreun or West End) so you’re within walking distance of most of the action down by the river at the bottom of Broadway. The upscale Virgin Hotel perched on the entrance to Music Row and walkable to the Demonbreun bar strip and downtown honkytonks.
MUSIC VENUES TO VISIT:
1) * The Bluebird Cafe (Green Hills, 15 min drive from downtown)
Chances are you’ll have trouble getting a ticket to the Bluebird, but it’s worth a shot. This little 90-seat club in a strip mall used to be an insider secret, but not anymore, thanks to massive exposure on ABC’s Nashville TV show. It’s the place where artists like Garth Brooks and Taylor Swift got their start, and it’s where yours truly cut her teeth as a performer. They host 2 “rounds” of acoustic songwriter shows per night from Tues-Sat, and no 2 shows are the same. The early (6pm) round will be up-and-comers along with established hit makers, and the late (9pm) round is usually loaded with heavy hitters.
When it comes to nabbing a seat, you’ve got 2 options: a) join the online queue on their website when they open their reservation system at 8am CST exactly a week before the show you want to attend (or 8am on the Monday before Fri/Sat shows), and click to be assigned a random shot at a ticket before they inevitably sell out within a minute or two…or b) line up outside the door at least an hour before showtime to try and get a first come, first served unreserved seat.
Note: Sunday nights feature auditioned but less experienced songwriters headlined by a hit maker at the end of the night, and Mondays are open mic nights followed by a full band show. So it’s generally best to visit Tues-Sat.
2) * The Listening Room (downtown)
If you can fit this into your trip - even if you’ve never seen a songwriter show and don’t love country music - DO IT. Trust me, you’ll love it. This is my number one go-to recommendation for anyone visiting Nashville, because unlike the Bluebird, you are usually able to grab tickets to these shows! This bar/restaurant/listening venue within walking distance of lower Broadway is a larger version of the same concept, with songwriter shows happening twice per night, plus brunch and afternoon shows on weekends. Usually the hit-maker songwriters are performing in the 630 or 830pm shows, but any show you experience here is going to be great! Online reservations are recommended - weekend night shows tend to sell out - but often you can just walk in for daytimes or weekdays. It’s a great alternative to the Bluebird - a little less intimate, but just as likely to be the absolute highlight of your trip.
3) The Station Inn (the Gulch, 5 min drive/15 min walk from downtown)
Bluegrass, bluegrass, and more bluegrass! Even if you’re not a huge Bluegrass fan, the world class musicians that perform at this little hole-in-the-wall venue will make your jaw drop.
4) The Basement (10 min drive south of downtown)
This little basement...literally, a basement...features great outside-the-box talent. This is the place to see the young up-and-coming indie, rock, and Americana-country artists you’ll hear on the radio someday. No reservations needed, but I.D. and a cover charge (usually $5) required. And while you're on their website, check out the schedule at the newer, larger sister venue in East Nashville, The Basement East (known to locals as "The Beast"). It was torn to shreds in the 2020 tornado, but has been rebuilt around the bones and is thriving again.
5) *Lower Broadway (the downtown strip)
Don’t leave Nashville without spending at least a few hours wandering in and out of the honkytonks downtown on lower Broadway. There’ll be a band performing constantly in every bar from 10am-2am daily, and while the Bluebird is the place where songwriters cut their teeth in Nashville, this is the place where not-yet-discovered country artists perform for tips and exposure. Grab a beer at Tootsie’s (where Hank Williams Sr. sneaked drinks during Opry set changes and Terri Clark was discovered in the front window). Wander into The Stage, and Robert’s Western World…eat some BBQ at Jack’s…hop the celebrity-owned venues like Jason Aldean’s, Kid Rock’s, Blake Shelton’s Ole Red, Dierks Bentley’s Whiskey Row, Eric Church’s Chief’s, or Honkytonk Central…buy one pair of cowboy boots and get 2 free at Boot Country, and head up Printer’s Alley to hear country music covers from the sublime to the ridiculous. If you’re a fan of country music history, take a tour of the historic Ryman Auditorium, the original home of the Grand Ole Opry.
6) The Grand Ole Opry (next to the Opryland hotel, 20 minutes east of downtown)
If you’re a fan of classic country music - or of country radio from the 90’s to the present - and you don’t mind a little cheese with your twang, the Opry is a fun evening. Reserve a seat for a show on Tuesday, Friday or Saturday night, and see legendary artists like Whisperin’ Bill Anderson perform alongside today’s country stars like Brad Paisley and Carrie Underwood in this throwback live-to-radio show. Artists differ for each show, are announced a few weeks beforehand, and with each artist limited to 2 or 3 songs each, there’s lots of variety every night. In January when crowds are smaller, get the added bonus of experiencing an Opry show at its original location in the Ryman Auditorium downtown. (And keep an eye out for my amazing friend Tania Hancheroff in the Opry’s backup group The Opry Singers. They learn new material to back up different artists every night, so it’s pretty remarkable!)
7) Other spots…check the Scene!
Whether you’re a country fan, a rock fan, an indie/Americana music fan, or even a fan of classical music, you’ll find what you want to hear in Nashville. Check out the Nashville Scene's online show listings before your visit to find out who is performing at other famous local venues such as 3rd & Lindsley, City Winery, The Ryman Auditorium, Chief’s Neon Steeple and more. Many industry showcases take place at 6pm, so watch for some of those and you might see an about-to-be-signed artist’s live show as they get scoped out by A&R for a record deal.
PLACES TO SEE
1) Gaylord Opryland Hotel (& Opry Mills mall)
I know it sounds strange to visit a hotel if you're not staying there, but this place is crazy. I’m talking about indoor rainforests, waterfalls, rivers with boats on them, and plenty of places to get lost. It’s a fun place to wander when the weather is rotten outside…get some freshly photosynthesized indoor oxygen…grab some drinks and cruise the indoor stores. Then, cross the parking lot to the Opry Mills mall next door for some outlet shopping.
2) *Country Music Hall of Fame
Music enthusiasts will love this massive downtown museum featuring all things country. On Saturday mornings at 11am, visit the museum’s Ford Theater for their “Songwriter Sessions”, featuring acoustic performances and Q&A sessions with hit songwriters.
3) *Music Row
If you’re here with a car or a bike, take a drive along the streets of Music Row (16th and 17th Avenues South between Demonbreun and Wedgewood) to check out the beating heart of Music City. At the entrance, you’ll pass the famous Musica sculpture on the roundabout (known as “Hillbilly Porn” to the locals who dress it up for special occasions). The Row itself won’t look like much from the outside - just a few blocks of office buildings interspersed with old houses - but those houses are the legendary publishing companies, studios and record labels that make the country music business wheels turn. Check out the banners hung outside the buildings to celebrate the songwriters on their roster who penned current Billboard hits. On any given day as you drive by, hundreds of songs are being written in those buildings and demoed in those studios.
4) East Nashville
I’m partial to East Nasty, because that’s where I live…but it’s also been named one of the coolest places to shop, eat, and hang out by several national magazines, so it’s worth a visit. Grab a cab over to 5 Points (10 min east of downtown)…have lunch, bar hop, and do some shopping for antiques, vintage wear or creative art. If you’re a runner, show up at 5 Points at 6pm any Wednesday to get some exercise in a giant group run with the 100+ members of the East Nasty running group…whether you’re a marathoner or a 5k-er, you’ll find your pace and make some new friends. I’m partial to Shelby Park as well - its Greenway trail meanders along the river for about 27 miles of beautifully flat, forest and honeysuckle-lined paved biking trails from East Nashville all the way out to the Donelson area. You can rent bikes from the outdoor stand at 5 Points and explore it from there, or pedal over to the Eastland area to check out some of the best restaurants in town.
5) 12 South
This neighborhood has gone from sleepy to an upscale packed strip of restaurants and shops over the past decade. It’s Nashville’s version of Rodeo Drive. Stroll along the strip with a Frothy Monkey latte, grab some food at The Henry, and pop into White’s Mercantile to shop for souvenirs with cool factor.
6) Pedal Tavern
If you’re visiting with a group of friends, this pedal-powered bar is a fun outing. Bring your own beer (the keg is just for show) and drink it while you sit on a barstool and pedal your way through downtown Nashvillle on this open-air tavern-on-wheels, stopping along the way to bar-hop.
WHERE TO EAT:
Nashville has a TON of amazing restaurants - it has become a real foodie hub lately. I’m no expert, but here are a few of my personal favorites, starting with my local East Nashville spots:
1) * Assembly Food Hall for a sample of everything (downtown)
Many of the best restaurants in Nashville now have locations in this upscale food court, which features live music, lots of funky seating options, and menus from Thai to hot chicken to fancy liquor-laced Sno-cones. If you don’t have much time in the city, this is a great place to get a taste of what it has to offer.
2) Sky Blue Cafe for breakfast (East Nashville)
It’s a small hole-in-the-wall, and there’s no lobby, so on weekends you will have to wait outside for a table. But it’s worth it for the delicious breakfast/brunch options. The Nashville TV show has filmed scenes in the funky art/antique store next door. (After 9:30am, the wait can be about an hour, so put your name on the list and then take a walk to explore the beautiful old Victorian houses on the surrounding streets.)
3) The Pharmacy or The Wild Cow for lunch or dinner (East Nashville)
Delicious burgers and old-school style "phosphates" (soda-shop-style sodas) are the staples at The Pharmacy; a small restaurant with a big backyard of Christmas-light-lit picnic tables. Covered seating is limited in the rain, and expect a significant wait at peak times, but this is a fun hang! As for The Wild Cow, even if you’re a carnivore, this vegan restaurant makes veggie food taste delicious. I still can’t figure out how they make their nachos or their buffalo-flavored quinoa kale bowl, but it's GOOD. (Closed Tuesdays.) When you're done, grab a bike from the rental rack in 5 Points and pedal over to Jeni’s for a homemade ice cream cone in flavors like Poached Pear Reisling or Cayenne Chocolate.
4) Lockeland Table for dinner (East Nashville's Lockeland Springs area)
Delicious and unique dishes, a great wine list and an awesome "community hour" happy hour are the hallmarks of this East Nashville eatery. (It's one of my faves...and that's a blessing and a curse because it's literally around the corner from my house!)
5) I Dream of Weenie or Hunter’s Station for lunch followed by drinks at Attaboy Speakeasy (East Nashville)
A fun afternoon indulgence: while you’re enjoying a stroll through Five Points, grab a picnic table and a loaded hotdog from this VW bus-turned-food truck that got popular enough to level up to brick-and-mortar. Or if you’d rather have more options, explore the funky Hunter’s Station indoor food court for something that suits your taste. Then go and knock on the unmarked Attaboy door and wait for someone to let you in, prohibition-style, so you can tell your bartender your preferred kind of alcohol and watch them custom-build a cocktail for you.
6) Barista Parlor for coffee (East Nashville)
This upscale coffee house, owned by a member of the Black Keys, features leather-aproned baristas creating your own personalized cup of coffee in what looks like a complex chemistry set behind the bar. It’s expensive but good…and the people watching is lots of fun. You’re equally likely to run into Robert Plant or an actor from the Nashville TV show here…if you can pick them out in the sea of hipster skinny jeans and hair gel.
7) The Southern, or Etch for a fancy dinner (Gulch & downtown)
These are both pretty pricey, but worth it! The Southern is a top notch steakhouse, while Etch is a foodie's paradise with a menu packed full of locally-sourced, gourmet foods in unique flavors and combinations. These restaurants are all pretty close to the fun downtown sights: Lower Broadway, the Listening Room, Country Music Hall of Fame etc.
8) Turnip Truck for a quick lunch on the go (Gulch location, 2 min drive/10 min walk from downtown)
This is a health food/produce store featuring a quick salad bar and hot bar for take-out, or for eating on the patio. It’s a good place for people-watching - you’ll occasionally see some star power here.
9) Fido for coffee or breakfast/lunch (Hillsboro Village, near Music Row)
This is a weekly hang for me and my girlfriends…and for half of Music Row. It’s the “let’s grab a coffee” spot for lots of music meetings, but the food is really good too. Wander Hillsboro village while you’re here too - there’s some cool shopping along the block.
10) Thai Esane for lunch (by Music Row)
If you’re a Thai Food fan, visit this little restaurant just off Music Row - that’s where half of the music business will be eating lunch!
11) Fenwick’s 300 (8th Ave) for breakfast
Unless you know your songwriters, you won’t realize that you’re sitting next to the biggest guns in the business as they chat about today’s song idea at the next table.
12) Bar-hop the Demonbreun & midtown strip: The Tin Roof, The Live Oak, Tailgate Brewery, Rebar, Riley Green’s Duckblind & Losers.
Lower Broadway is the tourist strip, but Midtown holds the local music industry hot spots. So grab a booth and some beers to people-watch. A lot of these bars feature live music performed by local songwriters. Oh, and check out the chocolate-milkshake-like bushwhacker at Rebar - delicious but deadly!
13) Additional Foodie Spots:
If you're a foodie, check out these expensive but renowned upscale Nashville eateries: Kayne Prime (a boutique steakhouse - try the cotton candy bacon appetizer!) and The Catbird Seat (the gourmet chef plans a specific dinner with paired wines and you pay a set amount for the whole thing - book it a few weeks in advance).
WHERE TO SHOP:
1) Malls:
There are several malls around Nashville: check out The Mall at Green Hills (upscale with a Nordstrom's, Macy's, Mac, BCBG, Lucky, Sephora, Athleta, and various boutique designer stores), Opry Mills (a huge outlet mall designed in a circle so you can walk the whole loop and shop at Saks Off 5th, Guess, Old Navy, Forever 21, Bass Pro Shop, Off Broadway Shoes etc) and Cool Springs Galleria (in the suburbs south of town).
2) Strip Malls:
Check out Nashville West (Target, Ross, TJMaxx, Dick's Sporting Goods, World Market, Best Buy etc) and 100 Oaks Mall (Ross, TJMaxx, Kirkland's, Burlington Coat Factory, Ulta etc).
3) Consignment & Vintage:
Nashville has some cool consignment and vintage shops, as you'd expect in a town that centers around show biz where you can't be seen on camera wearing the same thing twice. Check out Designer Finds (next to the Mall at Green Hills), and there are a ton of others listed in this guide.
4) Boutique Fashion Stores:
Nashville has some wonderful (and some wonderfully expensive) boutique shopping stores where you can find unique and super stylin' pieces. Check out this guide for details.
5) Antiques:
If you're a lover of antiques there's a lot to choose from around here, here's your guide to Nashville antique stores.
ADDITIONAL INFO FOR SONGWRITERS/MUSICIANS:
If you’re an aspiring songwriter or a visiting musician, here are a few tips for navigating your trip to Nashville.
1) Plan ahead
If you’re coming to co-write or participate in the music business, avoid visiting between Thanksgiving and Christmas - many industry folks are gone during that time. Likewise, avoid the first week of May when most of Music Row flies to Key West for the songwriting festival. Folks book their schedules a long way out, so if there are people you plan to meet or work with, try to contact them well in advance.
2) Join NSAI
The Nashville Songwriters Association International (NSAI) is Music Row’s Ellis Island…it’s the welcoming spot where newcomers can get oriented and find info about how the business works. Call ahead to make an appointment and find out what they do, or become a member online in advance and plan your trip around one of their educational seminar weekends. (The annual fee for this nonprofit association goes towards the worthy cause of legislative songwriter advocacy.) Take advantage of NSAI’s song evaluation services from afar, have a one-on-one coaching session in person, or attend a “pitch-to-publisher” night with your demos. You can also use NSAI as a home base for internet access, printer/computer access, and songwriting rooms while you’re in town.
3) Visit your PRO
Are you a member of ASCAP, BMI, or SESAC? If you’ve earned royalties from any of your songs, you should be (or if you’re represented by a PRO in another country you’re likely already automatically affiliated with one of the American ones too). When you make your plans to visit, reach out to someone in Member Services at the Nashville office of your PRO and ask them to meet with you, hear your songs, and help hook you up with cowriters or publishing meetings while you’re here. My Member Services rep at ASCAP was the one who got me the publisher meetings that resulted in my first songwriting deal. Also, ask your PRO rep if they know of any “#1 parties” happening during your visit (they’re last minute, unadvertised, parties to celebrate the songwriters behind the current hit topping the Billboard chart, and anyone who knows about them can usually attend).
4) Take in the live music
Don’t miss your chance to visit the venues listed above and soak in as much live music as possible while you’re here. You can also try your luck applying for the Bluebird Cafe’s open mic night, where attendees enter a raffle for the chance to perform, or speak to the host of the Commodore’s nightly songwriter rounds - one of the most welcoming venues for unestablished songwriters seeking to perform - to see if they can fit you in for a late-night audition and then a potential slot in an upcoming show.
5) Network, network, network!
Know anyone in the music biz down here? Reach out to them and see if they’ll meet for coffee during your visit. Don’t know a soul? That’s ok…many of us didn’t when we first got here. The beauty of this city is that hardly anyone is actually FROM here. So start conversations…be outgoing…visit restaurants and venues where the music industry crowd spends time, and talk to the stranger sitting next to you. You never know who it might be…and in this business, who you know is just as important as what you do.
A CAVEAT: One of the rookie mistakes aspiring songwriters often make is asking established songwriters they’ve barely met to co-write with them. Co-writing is an opportunity that must be earned. It's a bit like asking for sex before you've even been on a date. :) What you CAN do is ask to buy them coffee...pick their brains...even offer them an online link to check out your music (which they may not be allowed to accept if their publisher has a policy against accepting unsolicited music due to risk of copyright suits) but unless you’re a writer with success to your name, or unless THEY open the door to that topic, don’t ask them to write.
*****
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